Anthias

Anthias are the fish that turn a reef tank into a reef. On the wild reef they hang in shoals in the current, and that is what they do in a tank too - which is why nothing else quite replaces them. Gallery Aquatica stocks four species at our shop in Tingalpa, east of the Brisbane CBD.

Anthias are in-store purchase and pickup only. We do not send live fish by courier or freight. Ring 0420 484 584 to check what is in.

Feeding: the thing that decides whether they live

Anthias are planktivores. In the wild they feed continuously all day on drifting zooplankton, and their bodies are built around that - small stomachs, fast metabolisms, no capacity to store energy. A fish fed once a day is a fish running at a deficit.

This is the single reason most anthias fail in home aquariums, and it has nothing to do with water quality. A slowly starving anthias looks fine for weeks: it swims, it colours up, it takes food when offered. Then the belly hollows behind the gills, and by the time that is obvious the fish is usually beyond recovery.

Feed two to three times a day, minimum. Small amounts, frequently. Frozen mysis and enriched brine, finely chopped, plus a quality small pellet once they are taking prepared food. An automatic feeder handles the middle-of-the-day feed if you are at work. We stock a range of marine foods suitable for them.

If you cannot commit to feeding several times a day, buy something else. That is a more useful piece of advice than any amount of care detail.

Harems, not pairs

Anthias live in harems: one dominant male with a group of females. Like clownfish they change sex, but in the other direction - all anthias start female, and if the male dies the dominant female becomes male to replace him.

The practical version: buy one male and three or more females, or buy a group of juveniles and let one become male. Do not buy two males, and do not buy just two fish - a pair gives the dominant one nobody to spread its attention across, and the other gets harassed.

Males are the brighter, larger, more elaborately finned fish. In most species the difference is obvious.

Flow and lighting

Anthias want current to swim into and open water above the rock to hold position in. A tank with strong laminar flow across the upper third suits them far better than one with gentle random movement. They also appreciate somewhere to retreat, so open water plus structure rather than open water alone.

They jump. A lid is not optional, and it is the second most common way people lose them.

The anthias we stock

Lyretail Anthias (Pseudanthias squamipinnis, also sold as squamipinnis or squammipinnis)

The most commonly kept anthias and the one to start with. Females are orange-gold; the male is deeper red-magenta with an elongated dorsal spine and a pronounced lyre-shaped tail. Reaches 13 cm, wants 300 litres.

The hardiest of the four and the most reliable at taking prepared food, which given the feeding demands above matters more than anything else. A male with three or four females in a 300 litre tank is the standard arrangement and it works well. Reef safe.

Dispar Anthias (Pseudanthias dispar)

The smallest of the four at 9 cm, comfortable in 220 litres. Females are pale peach-yellow; males carry a red dorsal fin and a flush of magenta across the face.

Being the smallest, it has the fastest metabolism and needs the most frequent feeding of any anthias here - three times a day is the floor, not the target. Peaceful and a good shoaler. Reef safe.

Cooper's Anthias (Pseudanthias cooperi)

A deeper-water species, red-pink shading to silver on the belly with a distinct darker band along the flank. Reaches 12 cm, wants 300 litres.

Coming from deeper reef, it appreciates subdued lighting and can look washed out under a bright fixture. Give it shaded areas under overhangs. Less commonly seen than the lyretail, and worth asking about. Reef safe.

Square Blotch Anthias (Pseudanthias pleurotaenia, squarespot anthias)

The largest anthias here at 20 cm, so allow 400 litres. Males are magenta-pink carrying a clean pale square blotch on the flank that the name refers to; females are plain yellow-orange and look like a different species entirely.

Another deeper-water fish that prefers lower lighting. The males are among the more spectacular anthias in the trade. Reef safe.

Which anthias should you buy?

The lyretail, for almost everyone. It is the hardiest, the most willing to take prepared food, and the most forgiving of a feeding schedule that slips occasionally.

The dispar if the tank is smaller, accepting that it needs the most feeding. Cooper's or the square blotch if you have a lower-lit tank with shaded overhangs and some anthias experience already.

Tankmates

Anthias are peaceful and mix with most things. Good combinations include clownfish, tangs, gobies, blennies, chromis, Banggai cardinals and dwarf angelfish.

Keep them away from anything that outcompetes them at feeding time - a boisterous eater will take the food before an anthias gets to it, and with these fish that is a slow death sentence rather than an inconvenience. Avoid lionfish, morays and triggerfish outright: anthias are the right size to be eaten.

Only one anthias species per tank, and only one male.

Common questions

Do you ship anthias?

No. All marine fish are in-store purchase and pickup only. We do not send live fish by courier or freight.

Are these anthias in stock right now?

These are the species we stock as our regular range, not a live inventory. Ring 0420 484 584 or email shop@galleryaquatica.com.au to check.

How often do you need to feed anthias?

Two to three times a day, in small amounts. They are plankton feeders with fast metabolisms and no ability to store energy, so a single daily feeding leaves them steadily losing condition. Frozen mysis and enriched brine plus a small pellet works well, and an automatic feeder covers the midday feed.

Why do anthias die in home aquariums?

Underfeeding, most of the time. A slowly starving anthias looks healthy for weeks before the belly hollows out behind the gills, and by then it is usually too late. The second most common cause is jumping out of an open-topped tank.

Can I keep a single anthias?

You can, and it will survive, but they are shoaling fish and a lone specimen is a poorer version of the animal. A group of one male and three or more females is much better. Avoid keeping exactly two, which concentrates the dominant fish's attention on one target.

Do anthias change sex?

Yes. All anthias begin as females, and if the dominant male dies the dominant female changes sex to replace him. This is the opposite direction to clownfish.

What size tank do anthias need?

A dispar works in around 220 litres, a lyretail or Cooper's in 300, and a square blotch in 400. All of them want open swimming water in the upper part of the tank and decent flow.

Are anthias reef safe?

Yes, all four species. They feed on plankton in open water and take no interest in coral or invertebrates.

More marine fish

See all the marine fish we stock, or the Brisbane store page for coral and equipment.